Patagonia 2013

On my first visit to South America in March 2013, I spent ten days in Patagonia with good friends Chris and Lesley mainly to see the magnificent National Parks in the area – Torres del Paine (in Chilean Patagonia) and Los Glaciers (in Argentinian Patagonia) covering the Mt Fitzroy and Moreno Glacier areas.

The trip started in Buenos Aires which is a very large city (approx 20 million people) spread out over a huge area on the south side of the Rio de la Plata. My impressions and photos of BA are covered in a separate page.

Patagonia is awesome with wide open spaces, big views and the wonderful Andes Mountains and the cleanest air I have seen since outback Australia. In short Patagonia is a wild and pristine part of South America and is well worth the effort to travel there.

We spent 4 days in the Torres del Paine NP and 3 days in the Los Glaciers NP (north and south ends) with the another 3 days of travelling between these locations in our rental VW Golf. Generally I was impressed with the accommodation and restaurant quality in all locations (El Calafate, Torres del Paine and El Chalten).

In spite of the relative remoteness of the area, there were plenty of visitors around from all over the world especially in Torres del Paine with lots of hikers on the tracks doing overnight walks and staying at the excellent camping facilities along the way.

A selection of photos showing the highlights of the trip are provided below. The key piece of advice for travellers to Patagonia is to take plenty of USD in cash to pay for practically everything at 10 to 15% discount rates. In all our planning, we did not pick up this key piece of information. Also you need a yellow fever certificate to depart from Argentina (but not required for entry interestingly..!)

View of an Estancia and countryside just outside El Calafate our entry point to Patagonia

View of an Estancia and countryside just outside El Calafate our entry point to Patagonia

Patagonian Steppe Country outside El Calafate

Patagonian Steppe Country outside El Calafate

First view of Torres del Paine massif

First view of Torres del Paine massif

View of Torres del Paine mountain massif from our cabana

View of Torres del Paine mountain massif from our cabana

View of TdP massif from Ferry showing the complex geology of the massif

View of TdP massif from Ferry showing the complex geology of the massif

Another view of Massif showing French Valley the location of our first walk

Another view of Massif showing French Valley – the location of our first walk

In French Valley at turnaround point. Note dirty glacier in the lower background.

In French Valley at turnaround point. Note dirty glacier in the lower background.

Resting up in French Valley before heading back to Ferry.

Resting up in French Valley before heading back to Ferry.

Great reflection of the Massif.

Great reflection of the Massif.

Mini icebergs in Lake Grey which is fed by Grey Glacier.

Mini icebergs in Lake Grey which is fed by Grey Glacier.

Looking down to Lake Grey with Glacier in background

Looking down to Lake Grey with Glacier in background

Rio Serrano valley where we stayed (cabanas in middle of picture)

Rio Serrano valley where we stayed (cabanas in middle of picture)

East side of massif showing the geology. The lighter rock is granite which intruded into the sedimentary layers (dark rock above and below) as a laccolith. Very interesting geology...

East side of massif showing the geology. The lighter rock is granite which intruded into the sedimentary layers (dark rock above and below) as a laccolith. Very interesting geology…

On the track to the main attraction - the three towers (Torres)

On the track to the main attraction – the three towers (Torres)

The majestic Torres with glacial lake below.

The majestic Torres with glacial lake below.

Mountain transport (taking supplies to the Refugio).

Mountain transport (taking supplies to the Refugio).

On the way to Mount Fitzroy in north end of Los Glaciers NP.

On the way to Mount Fitzroy in north end of Los Glaciers NP.

Mount Fitzroy (tallest peak) named after Captain Fitzroy who sailed with Charles Darwin on the Beagle expedition

Mount Fitzroy (tallest peak) named after Captain Fitzroy who sailed with Charles Darwin on the Beagle expedition

La Leona Hotel between El Chalten and El Calafate where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hid out for a month in 1905 after robbing the bank at Rio Gallegos (on east coast).

La Leona Hotel between El Chalten and El Calafate where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hid out for a month in 1905 after robbing the bank at Rio Gallegos (on east coast).

Gauchos driving sheep on way out of TdP

Gauchos driving sheep on way out of TdP

At Moreno Glacier in bad weather

At Moreno Glacier in bad weather

Moreno Glacier up close

Moreno Glacier up close

View from El Calafate on day after bad weather

View from El Calafate on day after bad weather

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